Helsinki

Granite, sea and a fortress island

Helsinki packs a lot into a compact, walkable centre: the Esplanadi and Market Square, the Parliament, Oodi Library, and the Rock Church, carved straight into the granite. Then there's the Sibelius Monument, where steel organ pipes rise out of the rock.

The highlight was the ferry to Suomenlinna, an island fortress I could have wandered all day: grass-roofed bunkers, old cannons facing the sea, and a church that doubles as a lighthouse. Senate Square and the Cathedral closed out the trip, half-wrapped in restoration scaffolding but impressive all the same.